Sunday afternoon May 23, 2010: Ninety miles and a few hours after leaving the Tonsina River and Serge's campground, we arrive in Valdez, Alaska. The ninety mile trip along Highway 4 was interesting, eventful and scenic. About halfway through the trip we are stopped by a highway department worker. Just to our east is the Worthington Glacier and to the west is the Chugach Forest. there is no evidence of construction, but we can tell we are in serious avalanche territory and, with the temperature in the high 60's we figure there must be a big pile of snow blocking the road ahead. Well, sort of. It turns out that the avalanche team is sighting in the gun they use to intentionally set off an avalanche. We joke that if you have to sight in your weapon, when the target is a ten thousand foot mountain, you might want to think about another line of work. The highway worker informs us that it could be up to an hour before we can proceed. By now there are a half dozen pickups and cars, plus three big rigs behind us and everyone is out on the road swapping Alaska highway stories. Joe and I are looking at the river running next to the road and discussing whether we should get out the gear and wet a line, when an old, but familiar sound, rocks the air. The loud report, magnified by the surrounding mountains and quickly followed by the concussion of a weapon on the order of a U.S.Navy 5"/54 has our undivided attention.The sighting-in has begun.
The first round is followed by another four, then the day stays quiet. The highway workman hands Joe a red caution flag and asks that we pull over and take up position last in line. He informs us that there will be another workman, waiting at the end of the short pass ahead. We are to hand him the flag and let him know that we are the last of the vehicles. As we head on, toward Thompson Pass, we catch a view of the Worthington Glacier. We are fairly certain that this is the largest glacier we have seen since entering Alaska.
We cover the distance to Thompson Pass without further gunfire and are thankful that we are navigating the "snowiest spot in Alaska" on a clear spring day. The eight percent grade takes us past Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls, and finally, down into the seaport town of Valdez. Now this is what we expected Alaska to look like!
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Monday, May 31, 2010
Anchorage - May 21 - 23
It's Friday morning, May 21st and we slept in until 7:30. Sam has already left for work and Ben is still up at Pump Station #4, somewhere south of Coldfoot along the Dalton Highway. Joe and I spend the day drinking coffee, relaxing, working on the blog and napping. When Sam gets home from work, she takes us to her favorite Mexican restaurant for supper, where we have fried ice cream then head back to the apartment and our beds.
Saturday, May 22nd. Joe and I load up and head into Anchorage to get the oil in the truck changed and pick up supplies at Wall mart. Then, we head up to Eagle River Campground and make camp on the river. At Eagle River,we meet the campground manager, Wynsong. Absolutely, the friendliest person we have met since entering Alaska. She and her husband came to Alaska a year or so back and her enthusiasm for the state is incredible. After a cup of coffee, she gives us the rundown on the various lakes where we might snag a few trout. Since Wynsong is from the south (North Carolina) we share a few stories about frying fish and hush puppies, cooking grits, frying chicken and cooking collard greens. This is one very nice lady and you can't help but have a good day after starting it with her. Wynsong, if you're following this, bless your little ole pea-picking heart.
Sunday, May 23rd. We head back over to Sam's and she takes us to a wonderful, long time Anchorage restaurant known as Gweenie's. Once inside Gweenie's, you get the feeling that you've finally arrived in Alaska. The place is filled with displays of old mining tools, trapping equipment, hunting and fishing gear, signs and memorabilia of Alaska's early days. The log walls and stairs are hung with all manner of antler, horn and hide. The open area in the center of the downstairs dinning room has a mounted grizzly bear as the main focal point. The bear is surrounded by other local wildlife, the most stuning of which is a snow fox.
Following an enormous breakfast that included reindeer sausage, Frisbee sized pancakes and, surprisingly, grits and eggs, we head back to the apartment to load up and get back on the road.
The truck is loaded and we're on our way to Valdez, via Wasilla/Palmer, Glenallen and the Richardson Highway. At the little village of Glenallen, we turn south onto the Richardson Highway and begin entering some of the rougher country Joe expected to find in Alaska. There are numerous rivers and creeks to cross, dozens of turquoise colored lakes visible from the road and cloud touching, snow covered mountains all around us. There is no real rush to reach Valdez, and when we come the Tonsina River near Copper Center, we decide to make an early camp and get in some fishing. We run into, Serge, a friendly Russian fellow who happens to own a campground/RV park/bar/restaurant/airstrip/Russian sauna right on the banks of the Tonsina River. Serge offers us a free campsite at his place and we accept his offer.
Access to the river, plentiful firewood, internet access (sometime), beautiful mountain views and a level spot to park our "class F - RV." We figure we have it made and decide to stay a few days.
After three days of no fish, no showers and dwindling supplies, it's time to get back on the road for Valdez. We break camp and as Joe heads down the road on his bike, I stop by the bar and thank Serge's son for the hospitality, then pull up on the highway rolling south to find Joe. I catch up with him about three miles south of camp and follow him another two miles to the Little Tonsina River. This spot looks like a perfect fishing hole, so we pull off the road, get out our gear and give it a try. An hour later and still no luck, we pack it in, load the bike and continue on to Valdez.
Saturday, May 22nd. Joe and I load up and head into Anchorage to get the oil in the truck changed and pick up supplies at Wall mart. Then, we head up to Eagle River Campground and make camp on the river. At Eagle River,we meet the campground manager, Wynsong. Absolutely, the friendliest person we have met since entering Alaska. She and her husband came to Alaska a year or so back and her enthusiasm for the state is incredible. After a cup of coffee, she gives us the rundown on the various lakes where we might snag a few trout. Since Wynsong is from the south (North Carolina) we share a few stories about frying fish and hush puppies, cooking grits, frying chicken and cooking collard greens. This is one very nice lady and you can't help but have a good day after starting it with her. Wynsong, if you're following this, bless your little ole pea-picking heart.
Sunday, May 23rd. We head back over to Sam's and she takes us to a wonderful, long time Anchorage restaurant known as Gweenie's. Once inside Gweenie's, you get the feeling that you've finally arrived in Alaska. The place is filled with displays of old mining tools, trapping equipment, hunting and fishing gear, signs and memorabilia of Alaska's early days. The log walls and stairs are hung with all manner of antler, horn and hide. The open area in the center of the downstairs dinning room has a mounted grizzly bear as the main focal point. The bear is surrounded by other local wildlife, the most stuning of which is a snow fox.
Following an enormous breakfast that included reindeer sausage, Frisbee sized pancakes and, surprisingly, grits and eggs, we head back to the apartment to load up and get back on the road.
The truck is loaded and we're on our way to Valdez, via Wasilla/Palmer, Glenallen and the Richardson Highway. At the little village of Glenallen, we turn south onto the Richardson Highway and begin entering some of the rougher country Joe expected to find in Alaska. There are numerous rivers and creeks to cross, dozens of turquoise colored lakes visible from the road and cloud touching, snow covered mountains all around us. There is no real rush to reach Valdez, and when we come the Tonsina River near Copper Center, we decide to make an early camp and get in some fishing. We run into, Serge, a friendly Russian fellow who happens to own a campground/RV park/bar/restaurant/airstrip/Russian sauna right on the banks of the Tonsina River. Serge offers us a free campsite at his place and we accept his offer.
Access to the river, plentiful firewood, internet access (sometime), beautiful mountain views and a level spot to park our "class F - RV." We figure we have it made and decide to stay a few days.
After three days of no fish, no showers and dwindling supplies, it's time to get back on the road for Valdez. We break camp and as Joe heads down the road on his bike, I stop by the bar and thank Serge's son for the hospitality, then pull up on the highway rolling south to find Joe. I catch up with him about three miles south of camp and follow him another two miles to the Little Tonsina River. This spot looks like a perfect fishing hole, so we pull off the road, get out our gear and give it a try. An hour later and still no luck, we pack it in, load the bike and continue on to Valdez.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
May 20, 2010 - Anchorage, AK
Tok is still in our side view mirrors as we turn southwest onto the Tok Cutoff and begin the 328 mile hop to Anchorage. The state designation for the road is Highway 1 and once we reach the intersection of Highway 4, running southeast from Delta Junction, Highway 1 will become The Glenn Highway, into Anchorage. On the way to the most populated city in Alaska, we get our first view of one of the states 19 mountain peaks rising above 14,000 feet. Southwest of Mentasta Lake and the villages of Slana and Chistochina the Wrangell Mountains begin to appear to the west of our route. There is one particularly high peak among the many ragged, yet majestic peaks and while I check our maps to determine the name of this one, Joe and I try to guess its elevation. As we approach tiny, Gakona, the mountain is not more than 30 miles, due west of us. Finally, with the help of my trusty magnifying glass, Rand McNally reveals the answer; we are looking at the 16,237 foot peak of Mt. Sanford. Two other peaks, visible behind Mt. Sanford to the southwest are, Mt. Drum, at 12,010 feet and, Mt. Wrangell, at 14,113 feet. Joe and I both make the somewhat less than astute observation that, "we ain't in Kansas anymore." As the trip progresses and the grades increase to 7%, then 8%, the roads get more narrow and less straight, the moose and caribou begin showing themselves more often and the vistas increase to unimaginable sizes we will repeat that observation almost daily.
We leave the Wrangell Mountains and the Tok Cutoff behind at the Highway 4 intersection, where Highway 1 becomes the GlennHighway. From here we have about three and a half hours to Anchorage and the time passes quickly. About 30 miles out of Anchorage we pass the turnoffs for Palmer and Wasilla, then a few more miles down the road and Elmendorf, AFB appears on the north side of the highway. Now the maps are out and we are searching for the first of the campgrounds we have marked in our "Milepost" directory. Nothing looks inviting, so we pull into the parking lot at Sam's Club and Joe calls his son Ben's new wife, Sam, to let her know we are in town and ask if she knows of any campgrounds in the area. In a short hour, Sam, arrives to take us under her wing and lead us, first to pizza, then to their apartment. It's showers, a sofa and an air mattress tonight; no cold, damp, pick up truck bed for these wore out campers. We've made it to Anchorage. From my little spread in Prescott Valley, Arizona to Ben and Sam's apartment in the mountains above Anchorage, Alaska, we have covered 3,807 miles, or 6,091 kilometers. Joe has driven an additional 1,800 miles, or 2,880 kilometers from his home in Dublin, Ohio. The entire trip, so far, has totaled: 5,607 miles, or, 8,971 kilometers. Either way, it's been a heck of a ride.
We leave the Wrangell Mountains and the Tok Cutoff behind at the Highway 4 intersection, where Highway 1 becomes the GlennHighway. From here we have about three and a half hours to Anchorage and the time passes quickly. About 30 miles out of Anchorage we pass the turnoffs for Palmer and Wasilla, then a few more miles down the road and Elmendorf, AFB appears on the north side of the highway. Now the maps are out and we are searching for the first of the campgrounds we have marked in our "Milepost" directory. Nothing looks inviting, so we pull into the parking lot at Sam's Club and Joe calls his son Ben's new wife, Sam, to let her know we are in town and ask if she knows of any campgrounds in the area. In a short hour, Sam, arrives to take us under her wing and lead us, first to pizza, then to their apartment. It's showers, a sofa and an air mattress tonight; no cold, damp, pick up truck bed for these wore out campers. We've made it to Anchorage. From my little spread in Prescott Valley, Arizona to Ben and Sam's apartment in the mountains above Anchorage, Alaska, we have covered 3,807 miles, or 6,091 kilometers. Joe has driven an additional 1,800 miles, or 2,880 kilometers from his home in Dublin, Ohio. The entire trip, so far, has totaled: 5,607 miles, or, 8,971 kilometers. Either way, it's been a heck of a ride.
May18 &19, R&R - Tok, AK
After a week on the road we decide to take a break in Tok. While not a metropolis, nor even the outskirts of one, Tok does have many of the services we require. There is a grocery store; friendly, well stocked and unbelievably expensive (Tok is located at the far eastern edge of Alaska, about 90 miles from the Yukon border). There is a Laundromat; located at the fancy RV Park across the highway, where, for only $7.00 (No Canadian Quarters - They Jam the Machines) we can wash and dry a load of clothes (we have 3 loads - compressed to 2 - our whites are now grays). There is a very nice visitor's center with useful information on Anchorage and points south and a paved bike trail for Joe. And, finally, there is a restaurant, known as Fast Eddies, that has very good food prepared without mosquitoes, flies, gnats, ash or sand.
After two days in Tok, we are ready to tackle the traffic, noise and urban clutter associated with any sizable city; tomorrow we go to Anchorage.
After two days in Tok, we are ready to tackle the traffic, noise and urban clutter associated with any sizable city; tomorrow we go to Anchorage.
May 17, 2010
Pine Lake Camp Ground. We woke this morning to ice on the inside of the camper shell windows, I guess it got cold last night. Joe gets a fire going and I make a pot of hot, black, stout coffee. We pack the truck, pick up the campsite, dowse the fire and get back on the Alcan. Our next stop will be Tok, Alaska, USA.
North bound on the Alcan, 0900, Joe behind the wheel at km post 1618, a Wolf crossed the road in front of us. This guy is big and there is no way to confuse him with a dog.
Northbound on the Alcan, noon-thirty, Joe is still driving, north of Destruction Bay @ km post 1724, we spot a large grizzly bear on the west side of the road. Joe stopped the truck and I got out to take pictures. It turns out this is a female grizzly and she is intent on digging for grubs or roots. I was able to get several good photos of her, as were several other travelers who stopped.
At 1457 hrs (2:57 P.M ADT) we finally cross the border into Alaska! Although it was anticlimactic; a muddy road, traffic cones, a construction worker and a home made looking sign reading, Alaska, stapled to a post. I exaggerate, but not by much; the sign was actually bolted to a post.
5:30 P.M. ( I don't want to confuse anyone with navy time) we make it to Tok,(rhymes with smoke) Alaska. We stop in at a few of the local campgrounds, but the rates are higher than we can afford, so we decide to head to the state campground a few miles south of town. On the way out of town we find one more local campground and decide to check their prices. It turns out the campground was just opening for their first season and we would be their first customer. The rate was very affordable, the showers were great and the area was quiet. We made camp, took our showers and fixed supper. Our first night back in the U.S., at the Alaskan Stoves RV Park, where the owners are friendly, the showers are clean and roomy and the trees offer abundant shade.
North bound on the Alcan, 0900, Joe behind the wheel at km post 1618, a Wolf crossed the road in front of us. This guy is big and there is no way to confuse him with a dog.
Northbound on the Alcan, noon-thirty, Joe is still driving, north of Destruction Bay @ km post 1724, we spot a large grizzly bear on the west side of the road. Joe stopped the truck and I got out to take pictures. It turns out this is a female grizzly and she is intent on digging for grubs or roots. I was able to get several good photos of her, as were several other travelers who stopped.
At 1457 hrs (2:57 P.M ADT) we finally cross the border into Alaska! Although it was anticlimactic; a muddy road, traffic cones, a construction worker and a home made looking sign reading, Alaska, stapled to a post. I exaggerate, but not by much; the sign was actually bolted to a post.
5:30 P.M. ( I don't want to confuse anyone with navy time) we make it to Tok,(rhymes with smoke) Alaska. We stop in at a few of the local campgrounds, but the rates are higher than we can afford, so we decide to head to the state campground a few miles south of town. On the way out of town we find one more local campground and decide to check their prices. It turns out the campground was just opening for their first season and we would be their first customer. The rate was very affordable, the showers were great and the area was quiet. We made camp, took our showers and fixed supper. Our first night back in the U.S., at the Alaskan Stoves RV Park, where the owners are friendly, the showers are clean and roomy and the trees offer abundant shade.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Fishing Trip & Valdez (PHOTOS)
Face to face with one of the halibut caught by Joe.
This ninety-eight pound halibut was mouth hooked by Joe and one other fisherman. According to the Captain, this is an extremely rare event. Ordinarily the catch goes to the winner of a coin toss. However, since the other fisherman was entered in the local halibut fishing derby, Joe magnanimously gave up his claim to the fish, allowing the other man to claim second place in the derby up to that point.
Joe reveals the strain required to heft his 50 pound catch. According to Joe, reeling in this beauty was like hauling up a boat anchor...with the boat attached.
Joe displays his catch. On the left is the 50 pound halibut and on the right, the 40 pounder.
The "Outlaw" heads out to sea on dead calm waters. The boat in the background is on blocks, awaiting its turn in the dry dock.
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